Last January, as part of Paris Fashion Week, John Galliano returned to Paris to present Maison Margiela’s Co-Ed 2023 collection. The collection is the second part of a story that began with Cinema Inferno, where Galliano once again demonstrated his great gift for storytelling. In addition, the maison debuted its collaboration with U.S. textile company Pendleton Woolen Mills. Now, this along with the complete Co-Ed Fall 2023 collection are on the street.
Plaid takes center stage in the series and adopts Pendleton’s signature print. The entire collection brilliantly fuses elements of the American West, big screen glamour, contemporary punk details and hints of Southern Gothic style. The mastermind behind it all? Galliano, who carefully selected three exquisite mid-century Pendleton fabrics, showcasing plaid in cool pastels, and striking white, red and black.
The house’s genderless wardrobe is inspired by the colors of the Great Plains West and adopts the innovative technique of decortiqué. This method reveals the structural essence of the garments and showcases the new Rorschach cutting method. Blouses, pants and sweatshirts exhibit this technique, revealing Pendleton linings. Similarly, denim garments reveal hidden plaid motifs through the ripped fabric, adding a unique touch to the collection.
The triumph of this collaboration lies in Galliano’s ability to introduce Pendleton’s signature workwear-like cadres into a couture context. With its novel zeal and a desire to put tradition at the service of contemporary couture, the collaboration and the entire Co-Ed 2023 collection in general are a testament to what craftsmanship can achieve in this day and age.
Maison Margiela’s latest Pendleton collaboration and Co-Ed Fall 2023 collection is now available in store and online.
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