Using as sole reference the Virginia Woolf quote “If you happen to enter a paper cave, don’t bring any clothes.”, Francesco Risso urges us to shed our preconceived ideas, embarking on a journey of deconstruction and encountering the most primitive self.
Inside a papier-mâché cave, Marni’s proposal was outside of time, space and all possible external agents. It was as if, upon entering the cave, the real world ceased to exist, only Marni and her guests existed. Ye and Bianca West were among them; and even if Bianca was more compliant with the mandate to “strip down” than the rest of the attendees, what it was really about there was to shed the preconceived ideas that might prevent one from fully experiencing the Marni universe.
The purpose of living the creative process viscerally, exploring sensations, smells and observations that feed the soul of design, leads Risso and the entire Marni family to forgo conventional reference images, opting instead to “paint during the night with colors they didn’t know existed.” As if it were a primitive impulse, typical of the primordial human being, Risso builds an inner zoo through which to channel his emotions. The coats are of different colors, textures and spots, and they are followed by animal prints that come to life in tunic-style dresses and coats. The evolution of the human body covers culminates in hand-painted textures, as if they were strokes on a body.
In a world saturated by digitalization and conservatism, fashion often becomes a haven for the most authentic and free expression. This season, Marni has defied convention once again, presenting a collection that celebrates the tactile, the imperfect and the instinctive. With a focus on the deconstruction of shapes and volumes, the brand takes us on a journey into the very essence of the human impulse, without any corruption.
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