Martine Rose blends history and subculture in her FW26 menswear

From the palace to the club.

Martine Rose presented her Fall/Winter 2026 menswear collection at Paris Fashion Week. With this proposal, she once again demonstrated her ability to mix very different cultural references without losing her identity. The collection revolved around archetypes, self-expression and exaggeration, bringing together Renaissance opulence and the aesthetics of 1990s clubbing.

The designer drew inspiration from figures known for their excessive and charismatic style, such as Henry VIII, James Brown and British boxer Prince Naseem. From these characters, she built a visual narrative that moves between the historical and the subcultural. The result had a theatrical tone, but always with a clear intention.

Among the most striking garments were jackets with corset-style stitching, satin bombers with integrated hoods and leather trousers with front lacing. In addition, shirts with lingerie details appeared, reinforcing the blend between classic masculinity and fetishistic elements.

Along the same lines, the silhouettes were exaggerated and playful. Thus, puffed sleeves inspired by Tudor doublets were adapted into sports jackets and MA-1s. Likewise, fur played a key role, with vintage-style textures and fuchsia accents on collars and shoulders, alongside animal prints and utility-inspired pieces.

FW26 confirmed Martine Rose’s mastery of contradiction. The garments showed a high technical level, but also humour and provocation. By revisiting elements from her own universe — such as fetish-inspired hardware, layered shirts and oversized workwear — the designer reaffirmed her influence on contemporary menswear.