This Sunday, Michael Rider signed his first catwalk show as creative director of Celine, marking a turning point for the French brand after the departure of Hedi Slimane. Paris hosted a debut marked by restrained shapes, clean lines and understated luxury.
Rider is no newcomer. With a decade of experience within Celine under the direction of Phoebe Philo, and a more recent stint as head of design at Polo Ralph Lauren, his return to 16 rue Vivienne feels almost like a restitution.
The collection paraded with a deliberate, almost choreographed calm. Structured trench coats, sharp blazers and compact knits opened the show in neutral tones that then exploded into saturated blues, reds and greens. Accessories were integrated into the show’s narrative with gold necklaces, stiff bracelets, oversized bags and scarves with the house logo.
Beyond the silhouettes and colours, Rider’s proposal articulates a leisurely vision of luxury. ‘Celine represents quality, timelessness and style, ideals that are difficult to achieve and even more difficult to define,’ the designer said.
In the same vein, there is in this debut a clear commitment to longevity, to the emotional value of what is well made. ‘I’ve always liked the idea of clothes that last,’ Rider reflects.
Without grand effects and without empty provocations, Michael Rider announces the beginning of a new era for Celine.
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