MM6 Maison Margiela presents its FW25 collection at Pitti Uomo 107

If you ever thought that black and white defined the codes of menswear, it’s time to rethink that. At Pitti Uomo 107, MM6 Maison Margiela made it clear that today’s menswear knows no boundaries, only layers. And the best proof of this was their show at the Giardino dell’Orticoltura in Florence, a space that, in its delicate fragility, transformed into the perfect runway for a show that was much more than just clothes: it was a statement of intent.

At the heart of a vintage-inspired botanical garden, a gleaming white greenhouse stood like a beacon in the dark, and the MM6 team, dressed head to toe in equally immaculate uniforms, played host in this pure, almost clinical atmosphere. Everything, from the walls to the tables, was an ode to white, a nod to the famous Maison Margiela autumn 2006 show. However, what the FW25 collection presented to us was anything but a blank canvas: it was a collage of shadows, textures, and countless shades of black.

The message was clear from the first step on the runway: black isn’t a colour, it’s a language. A spectrum that ranged from deep burgundy to gaffer tape, each layer of the collection blurred the boundaries between the rigidity of menswear tailoring and the unexpected softness of feminine finishes. Modular gloves and motorcycle helmets, symbols of strength and masculinity, intertwined with synthetic furs in lurex, in a subtle provocation that only MM6 knows how to pull off.

But beyond the garments, what really stood out was the attitude. The models, walking with a nearly dreamlike air, became the canvas for a story of dualities, where “Pagoda” shoulders inspired by Miles Davis added an untouchable touch of sophistication, and a shiny water suit appeared as the rebellious piece of the collection. Because there’s nothing more MM6 than surprising us with the unexpected, making us question conventions, and taking us by the hand to a space where masculinity and femininity, strength and vulnerability, luxury and utility, merge without asking for permission.

MM6 Maison Margiela FW25 didn’t just show us clothes: it presented a manifesto of menswear that plays with traditional codes while simultaneously challenging everything we know. And the best part: this man isn’t defined by what he wears, but by the layers he chooses to strip away.