Maison Margiela‘s MM6 line presented its SS25 collection in a setting that looked like something out of an industrial dystopia, with dim lighting filtered through a smoggy haze and a rumbling bass that resonated during Milan Fashion Week. On this bunker aesthetic catwalk, the brand reaffirmed its deconstructive DNA, the one that has defined its fashion legacy, taking it to new heights.
Paying homage to Margiela’s original vision, the collection incorporated translucent, plastic-like textiles and a deliberately irregular construction, reaffirming his commitment to studied imperfection. The dominant hue, an almost clinical titanium white, took the brand’s obsession with neutrals to a new level.
Silhouettes evoked the house’s early years with oversized sweatshirts, dinner jacket waistcoats and XXL sports eyewear. Hyper-worn denim, a constant element in the Margiela universe, was pushed to the limit: pieces like ripped jeggings and exaggerated V-necklines, which in other hands might seem obsolete, were given new life under Maison’s refined, deconstructive touch.
At one highlight of the show, a sleeveless T-shirt reminiscent of a crumpled plastic bag was worn by a model paired with nude jeans and ultra-polished gold accessories. This seemed to launch a subtle critique of fast fashion or the counterfeit culture that has replicated Margiela’s products ad nauseam, copying the forms without capturing their essence. Or perhaps MM6 simply continues to explore the dialogue between deconstruction and reproduction that is so fundamental to the Margiela universe.
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