Have you ever wondered: Where am I? Who are these people? Where am I going? Who am I? Why? These questions, echoing in the minds of many in turbulent times, find their echo in Natasha Zinko’s SS24 collection. The designer has brought us to London’s Soho Square to confront us with what makes us human. This season, the Ukrainian goes deeper into the mud than ever before, delving into what has allowed us to survive: our extraordinary ability to adapt even in the most adverse circumstances.
Humans have always run. We used to do it on foot to flee from dangerous predators. Now we do it by train, by car, by plane, crossing countries and borders, in search of safety in the face of threats that today seem unfortunately common: a turbulent political scene, war conflicts and an environmental crisis that is pressing us. NATASHA ZINKO in particular is closely touched, as a Ukrainian herself, by the Russian-Ukrainian war, which has been going on since 2014 and has displaced some 17 million people. For her it is just one more demonstration that we ran in the past, we run in the present and, no doubt, we will run in the future.
Despite the constant conflicts, life goes on. That’s why the designer welcomes us to THE CAMP, an optimistic vision of modern life in motion, a camp in times of war, conflict, uncertainty, absolute hustle and bustle.In this universe, two hands are never enough, that’s why the garments are full of pockets.Hooded sweatshirts with cropped hoods; sweatpants, wide; caps, embroidered, with serrated visors; a long black cape, hooded, light.Backpacks are freed from backs and find a new home at the front, transforming into vests held in place by repurposed straps. Functionality merges with biker style: flared jeans with motorcycle inlays on the knees, covered with oversized square pockets; leather overalls with motorcycle details on the back and pockets.
In a polarized world, few things unite us more than underwear. We all wear it; we all travel with it, we all pack it in our suitcases; so why do we hide it?Natasha says it’s time to normalize it.That’s why, like the pockets, the white elastic bands are almost omnipresent, peeking out of the unbuttoned pants, with the inscription “NATASHA ZINKO ORIGINALS”. Look 23 fuses asymmetrically sewn male briefs with a bra to form a roomy, sleeveless, floor-length dress.The skirt of look 25, with no top, is an amalgam of four overlapping white briefs, joined at different heights and angles. The bags, in monochromatic leather, take the form of slips.
In Natasha Zinko’s vision, fashion is not just a garment, it is a testament to our ability to adapt and endure in an ever-changing world. The SS24 collection is a reminder that no matter how much we run, we will find a way to keep going. Adaptation, resilience and style merge in every stitch, in every garment, in every detail. Natasha Zinko doesn’t just dress bodies, she dresses resilient spirits, ready to face whatever the future holds.
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