How is it possible that the distant past also conjures up the future? At one end, the tangible relics of distant civilisations; at the other, the unimaginable state of the world centuries from now. Julien Dossena’s latest collection for Paco Rabanne is set in the realm of the mirage, where myths and artefacts that endure collide with dreamt stories, where reality blurs with the illusory.
This archaeological expression by Rabanne is anchored in the present by its materiality and feeling. It is a reflection on the craftsmanship of the first garments and the evolution of the present. It is also an exploration of the relationship between touch and sensuality. From one look to the next, the body is adorned and provocatively revealed. A powerful feminine representation takes shape: sculpted, fearless, and timeless.
Traditional garments and cover-ups, such as sarouel trousers, tops with folded scarves, draped skirts and shorts are reinterpreted and embellished with metallic geometric embroidery, metallic fringes and laces. Raw, rustic fabrics interact with elaborate beading, while loose golden threads suggest a state of beautiful decadence. However, there is a parallel story: tailored jackets with front gathers, low-cut waists are worked from different angles and slouchy trousers signal a grunge attitude.
The draping, meanwhile, is inspired by depictions of ancient marble statues, from delicate folds of fabric to silkscreen prints that realistically capture light and shadow. Knit, wool and hemp knit looks pay homage to sheila hicks, with contoured silhouettes giving way to dense volumes of layered fibre.
The skin is not only exposed, it engages with the material experience: the sway of liquid metallic mesh against the leg, the shiver of an assemblage of burnished wooden discs and peacock feathers. Beyond Rabanne’s signature black, gold and silver, gradient tones of desert, luminous copper and cool shades of blue and lilac further enhance the skin.
Sculptural materials add a mystical touch, whether forehead pendants, belts made of glittering spheres or sandals embellished with rock crystals. Openwork boots with curved soles are designed with thin straps that climb up the leg, gladiator-style.
Dossena revisits ‘nues’, the iconic series by photographer Jean Clemmer in collaboration with Paco Rabanne featuring almost naked women in chains. Erotic and poetic at the same time, these 1962 images appear in tank tops, including one in a dress of Swarovski crystals and metallic mesh. The effect is like a reverse mimesis that underlines the mystery and desire always present in Rabanne.
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