Peter Do ushers in a new era at Helmut Lang

The most anticipated event of New York Fashion Week, Peter Do’s debut as creative director of Helmut Lang last Friday, has inaugurated a new stage of modernism within the revolutionary legacy of Helmut Lang. Peter Do, who faced the challenge of breathing new life into Helmut Lang while maintaining the codes and essence of the brand, passed the test with flying colors.

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The Spring/Summer 2024 collection, titled “Born to Go,” was unveiled with a poignant essay written by Ocean Vuong recited in the background. This narrative explored the queer experience through the symbolism of a car, highlighting the freedom it provides to escape the world and be authentic. In Lang’s universe, New York’s yellow cabs became a key element in conveying his message. At the time, Lang was the first to use these vehicles as advertising media.

This New York cab yellow also comes to life in clothing. As a print, formal garments and seat belt straps cross the wearer’s torso, anchoring themselves in the belt loops of the sharp pants. Alongside the yellow, a vibrant shade of pink appears in neutral-colored garments, underlining the importance of safety and bravery in equal measure. Helmut Lang’s signature androgyny permeated the collection. Meanwhile, Do’s modernity in cuts incorporated a minimalist elegance into each design, exploring the versatility of a contemporary closet.

Vuong’s words found their way onto button-down shirts, with poignant statements such as “Your car was my first room” and “Our clothes on the floor like trampled flowers.” These were paired with Lang’s iconic garments: smartly cut pants, leather pleats, voluminous yet casual coats, and skirts with unique prints.

For a brand that has lived on the fringes of the industry since its founder in 2005 decided to abandon his own label, Peter Do’s debut marks the beginning of a new era. Peter Do has demonstrated exceptional skill that bodes well for an impressive revitalization of the retired designer’s brand. Now, the challenge lies in seeing if Do will be able to effectively translate his talent into another brand identity in the coming seasons.

For more on the new Spring/Summer 2024 season, click a below.