Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, two of the most influential minds in fashion today, have proven their absolute dominance in the industry. While Miu Miu defied all predictions, nearly doubling its sales in a market where luxury seemed to falter, the dynamic duo at the helm of Prada continue to create milestones that not only dictate trends, but also offer an incisive commentary on our times.
If Prada’s Spring/Summer 2025 men’s collection invited us to question our perception of the material world, the women’s line for the same season, presented at Milan Fashion Week, became a clash of trends, emotions and visions that encapsulate the essence of the brand.
Prada and Simons took it upon themselves to break conventions, rewriting the rules of what can and can’t be combined. Classic western suede coats clashed with intergalactic chrome skirts and BDSM-inspired harnesses, while eerie black feathers, bug-eyed glasses and chain decals added a touch of surrealism that made the collection’s strange magic shine even brighter.
The proposal sailed between the classic and the provocative: delicate round-necked tops with floral prints rubbed shoulders with perforated metallic dresses that left the human figure exposed with calculated brazenness. In outerwear, shiny black leather mingled with pastel pink nylon, and the variety of eveningwear seemed designed for imposing businesswomen, otherworldly creatures and ballet dancers all at once.
Footwear was no slouch when it came to eclecticism: Prada and Simons revived a multitude of styles drawn from the brand’s archives, each receiving their deserved prominence on the runway.
The collection’s apparent lack of cohesion was, in fact, the clear message the designers wanted to convey. In an internet-driven culture, where trends move at breakneck speed and break down into infinite niches and sub-niches, Prada’s approach is to capture the spirit of as many as possible. As the zeitgeist fragments into algorithmic subsets, Prada’s visionary gaze remains attentive to each of them.
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