Sarah Burton creates new codes at Alexander McQueen FW23

Alexander McQueen returns to Paris to present his “Anatomy” collection, including the codes of the house as well as groundbreaking novelties.

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Fashion house Alexander McQueen has presented its Fall/Winter 2023 collection inspired by the concept of anatomy at Paris Fashion Week. Sarah Burton finds the perfect balance between the essence of the house and innovation in her latest proposal.

The iconic Naomi Campbell opened the show in an elegant black bodysuit with a plunging neckline. The silhouettes were the main responsible for bringing drama to the collection; in necklines composed of curved lines, laces that cinch the waist, angular shapes in the suits, asymmetrical openings to the thigh in the dresses…

Burton plays with the structures and cuts to give a twist to the designs and get a dazzling and seductive result. Some of his most outstanding creations in FW23 are the biker jacket dresses, subverted sequins and leather looks.

Orchids were very present in Burton’s proposal, both in blazers and in coats and jewelry. The designer commented in a press release: “The most prominent motif in the collection is the orchid, in its rarest cultivated forms but, after the daisy, the most common flower. It thrives in the air, resists rooting and grows wild. Extraordinarily beautiful and infinitely adaptable, the orchid mimics both predator and prey. In the language of flowers, the orchid is a symbol of love”. It’s a new code that gives a subtle nod to the ouroboros of McQueen’s legacy.

In other FW23 news, don’t miss Balenciaga’s discreet return.