Rumours that LVMH is about to buy Schiaparelli did not overshadow the SS24 Haute Couture collection that Daniel Roseberry presented at Paris Haute Couture Week. A fashion show inspired by yesterday and the future, with an eye on Mars. In 1877, Elsa Schiaparelli’s uncle Giovanni Schiaparelli, director of the Brera Observatory in Milan, discovered something new: a series of canals on the planet Mars, and coined the term “Martian”. So it makes sense that space has always been an informal code for the Maison.
Elsa’s fixation with astrology was known throughout the industry, so this collection pays homage to that obsession. Just as it continues the Maison’s vision of playing with polar opposites: the legacy and the avant-garde, the beautiful and the provocative, the earthly and the heaven-sent. But as art (and nature) teaches us time and again, what seems diametrically opposed can also generate new narratives. That’s why Roseberry took the house’s surreal DNA to new levels by re-using elements from the past, but with a robotic future in mind.
The looks in this collection honour that tradition, combining old-world techniques (such as over-embroidered guipure lace, velvet and lace appliqués, and hand-cut and embroidered chenille fringe) with new-world shapes, and references (such as a microchip mini-dress with motherboard and microfiche embedded from pre-2007 technological artefacts). Also of note is the appearance of a robot baby carried by model Maggie Maurer. And, like, the appearance of Jennifer Lopez, Zendaya and Hunter Schafer on the front row.
This trend in technology, art and now fashion has been present in fashion shows for a few seasons now. Roseberry created a “creature” dress with nude petal embellishments and a bird of paradise lace dress with soaring wings. A tie-dye suit of white silks and crepes was the ultimate expression of sobriety and elegance despite its futuristic dimensions and structured dresses, with collars and shoulder pads built to structural art, with beige fringes falling in a black. The puffed sleeves and shoulders were key and the construction of 3D prints on the appliqués elevated the looks.
Sigue toda la información de HIGHXTAR desde Facebook, Twitter o Instagram
You may also like...
