The most effective ingredients to combat skin blemishes

These spots, which vary in size, shape and colour, can be a source of aesthetic discomfort, affecting the uniformity and clarity of facial tone. Cosmetics, through tonics, creams and serums, can do much to prevent and even depigment them, thanks to ingredients such as niacinamide, glycolic acid, arbutin or vitamin C (ascorbic acid), whose efficacy is scientifically proven.

The causes of spots (freckles, melasma, solar lentigines, vitiligo, seborrhoeic keratosis, etc.) are diverse and include various factors such as sun exposure, hormonal changes, ageing and genetics. Fortunately, there are many ways to treat them, either through advanced dermatological procedures or with cosmetics such as serums, creams, etc…

The important thing in the latter lies in their composition: ‘Niacinamide or vitamin B3 is one of the most versatile ingredients that exist, it is a first-rate depigmenting agent that manages to reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the transfer of melanin to the surface cells of the skin, reducing the appearance of the spots and achieving a more uniform tone’ – says Esperanza Sáenz, head of image at Nezeni Cosmetics.

Another important ingredient that acts against spots is vitamin C or ascorbic acid, which has a great capacity to inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase, making it a great depigmenting agent, essential when it comes to producing more collagen, protecting the dermis from damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure, determining factors in premature ageing. Also essential are propanediol, glycerin and other natural ingredients such as sugar cane, cranberry extract and citrus fruits, as well as others used, for example, by the natural cosmetics firm Di Oleo.

Arbutin, the natural spot-lightening antioxidant

Arbutin, an active ingredient that functions as one of the safest and most effective depigmenting ingredients available today, is extremely important. It is suitable for all skin types and is highly effective in treating dark and age spots. This natural antioxidant is found in the leaves of plants such as bearberry, bilberry and cranberry, although it is also often manufactured synthetically.

It is also used in dermatology as a skin-lightening agent in the treatment of hyperpigmentation, as it acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor and stops further melanin production. Arbutin stops any additional melanin production, which, together with a lower amount of tyrosine, leads to less pigment and therefore fewer dark spots, age spots, freckles, melasma or post-inflammatory pigmentation, resulting in a more even complexion.

Esperanza Sáenz, image manager at Nezeni Cosmetics, recommends always using arbutin in the form of a facial serum, cream or gel twice a day, in the morning and at night: ‘If you are using it for the first time, it is best to test beforehand before applying it all over the face, for example, at night and on a small area of the forehead where the skin is thicker. If there is no irritation within 24 hours, it is a sign that you can start using it every night, and then continue to use it in the mornings as well’.

The result of arbutin on the skin is enhanced with the help of vitamin C, much better after exfoliating: ‘It is applied to the areas affected by hyperpigmentation on the face, always avoiding the eyes, lips and around the mouth. In addition to the face, the chest and hands are other areas that can also be affected, so you can also apply arbutin on the upper part of the hands and chest’.

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