The Substance is not just a film about the passage of time, but a visually sublime reflection on aging, identity and memory. Through a nuanced narrative, the work uses makeup as a powerful tool to explore and expose the internal transformation of the main character. Beyond being a simple aesthetic resource, makeup in The Substance becomes a visual code that defines and reconfigures Elisabeth, played by Demi Moore.
From the very first moment, the use of makeup in The Substance does not go unnoticed. Each lipstick, each choice of shade, not only responds to the conventions of beauty, but aligns perfectly with the emotional and psychological changes that Elisabeth experiences. In her quest to rediscover her youth, the protagonist opts for high-end products, such as Dior lip oil, a choice that, at first glance, seems trivial, but is loaded with a deep intention. This moment, which seems so simple, becomes a visual metaphor about the fight against the passage of time and the obsession to reverse it.
The scene in question, which went viral on TikTok, sparked a debate between Generation Z and Generation Alpha. The choice of Dior lip oil is not a coincidence: it represents that desire to rejuvenate, to cling to a fresher, more vibrant image. It is a gesture loaded with nostalgia for what has been lost and desire for what can no longer be recovered. Through this detail, makeup becomes a reflection of the insecurities that we all, to a greater or lesser extent, face when confronted with aging.
As the plot progresses, Elisabeth undergoes a radical transformation: from feeling trapped in her older self, she begins to embrace her younger identity, a profound change that is reflected in her cosmetic choices. In a key narrative twist, Elisabeth, in her rejuvenated version, chooses a lipstick by Charlotte Tilbury, a brand more associated with a mature and sophisticated aesthetic. This change illustrates how the character, by accepting her new reality, begins to value what is comfortable and familiar, leaving behind the masks of forced youth.
What stands out in The Substance is the way in which the props department has managed to transform cosmetic products into narrative vehicles. Makeup, more than just an accessory, is an extension of the character’s psychology. Every color, every texture, every brand choice is meticulously thought out to add an extra layer to the story being told. It’s not just about watching Elisabeth apply lipstick, but about understanding how that action is part of her process of personal acceptance and transformation.
The film plays with the dichotomy between desired youth and accepted maturity, using makeup as a way to represent this internal struggle. Makeup in The Substance is not a tool of empty beautification, but a powerful form of emotional communication that speaks to both superficiality and depth. It is a reminder of how, throughout life, we are forced to navigate between what we wish to be and what we really are.
In The Substance, makeup is a reflection of the passage of time, not a mask to hide it. The choice of cosmetic products, far from being a mere matter of style, becomes a symbol of acceptance, vulnerability and self-understanding. Each makeup is not only an aesthetic action, but a personal statement: a silent cry that invites the viewer to question what really defines our identity in a world obsessed with eternal youth.
The trick is how, as Elisabeth transitions between her current self and her rejuvenated version, makeup acts as a mirror to her psyche. As she clings to her present self, she seeks to erase the traces of time, gravitating toward beauty products that resonate most with new generations. When she reinvents herself, however, she abandons that need to conceal. Her choice of cosmetics reflects not only an aesthetic transformation, but a reconciliation with her true identity.
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