PALOMO presented its fourteenth collection, TIBURÓN SS22, last Friday 1st April at Espacio Loom in Madrid, located in the heart of the financial district.
Personalities such as Begoña Villacís, deputy mayoress of Madrid and relevant figures of culture and society such as Pedro Almodóvar, Martina Cariddi, Fabio Mcnamara, Mario Vaquerizo, Pol Monen, Topacio Fresh, María Escoté or the participants of Drag Race España Carmen Farala, Inti or Hugáceo Crujiente were witnesses of the spectacular parade.
TIBURÓN, Palomo‘s Spring/Summer 2022 season, draws a vibrant parallel between the sobriety of the lives of businessmen endowed with a rigidly structured aesthetic and the uninhibitedness they eccentrically flaunt; animated by their lust for grandeur and the generous funds in their accounts.
Alejandro, creative director, explores the executive world, taking inspiration from classics from the world of cinema and literature such as Dress for Success; American Psycho or The Wolf of Wall Street, taking them as a reference to reinforce the portrait of successful professional figures from financial capitals such as New York, Silicon Valley or the mythical business centre of Madrid; the Paseo de la Castellana, where the collection sees the light of day for the first time.
Located in the prime office area of Madrid’s real estate market, the new Espacio LOOM at Castellana 85 is the ideal place to host this new proposal.
Alluding to the classic tailoring of the office worker, the collection places great emphasis on tailoring, transforming classic lines into more contemporary concepts; an exercise that the Cordovan house carries out using prints that allude to visions of psychedelia, the fruit of a reality seasoned with narcotics.
Iconographic elements of the most “posh” profile of the local scene, such as polo shirts, knitted jumpers -which will be Palomo‘s first knitwear exercise- or classic cut trench coats acquire the brand’s recognisable queer codes by turning them into shameless pique pieces or dyeing them with gradient colour palettes; suitable for any self-respecting wishlist.
The most pronounced example of this transformation that Palomo suggests for classic Madrid comes in the form of mink and sable coats, which the designer interprets in a version of light marabou feathers worthy of Liberace himself.
The prints, with a large presence in the collection, accompany a skyline scenario of skyscrapers with gradients that allude to the sunrises and sunsets of the big cities. Applied on shirting fabrics, revering the office worker’s uniform; faded stripes reminiscent of the conventional pinstripe and 70’s inspired geometries are other elements in these colourful prints, created entirely in the atelier space.
In contrast to the more formal outfits, Palomo opts for his more “sporty” line -contextualised in the territory of the cult of the body, the gym or the sauna- showing tracksuit sets, polo shirts, overalls and his first summer knitwear line; all in bright colours.
Continuing with this more casual line, Levi’s® denim garments have been kept in order to transfer these same codes to the iconic 501®; subjected to laser processes that reveal a zebra pattern camouflaged among rips and tears, which come to life with the movement of the models’ steps. The allusion to the “aggressiveness” that gives the reference to the animal world helps to contextualise the madness of Wall Street; in contrast with more casual aesthetics, in which representative denim jackets are also integrated, with a version of the pyrographed print.
This spring, accessories are clearly in the spotlight, with colourful crocodile-print leather briefcases dressing up many of the looks. “Castellana”, the name Alejandro has given to his new flagship bag, also appeared in uber-desirable mini sizes. Accompanying the bags, the most recognisable shoes from Palomo’s collections repeated on the catwalk; in a selection of lace-up shoes, ankle boots and boots that enhanced the step of each of the models.
The glasses from the Palomo x MultiÓpticas –palomó– collaboration, which the designer signed for the third time, gave the final touch to the executive look that promises to be a trend-setter in the coming months.
The beauty look included an exhaustive work of hair styling by Lourdes Marroquí and Joseba Errasti -from Sebastián Professional– who worked on well sculpted and gelled hair forms that gave the scene a remarkable theatricality. To complete it, the exaltation of the office grew with a natural make-up and wet effect led by Egon Crivillers for Make Up For Ever; which pearled the face of the protagonists of the parade with discreet drops of sweat; superimposed on amelocotonné tones slightly altered by doses of colour in profiled and aggressive lipsticks.
The set design, signed by Cito Ballesta, recreated an office setting at sunset, with a set of lights and Venetian blinds provided by Leroy Merlin. The live music created for the occasion was provided by Chicotrópico, a duo with whom the firm has historically collaborated on previous occasions.
Scroll through the gallery below and discover the rest of the looks:
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