2,000 origami birds floated in the air as two ornithologists dressed in Browne’s iconic uniform watched the scene from their desk. From that moment on, it was clear that this was not going to be just any parade; like none of Thom Browne’s. In a couple of years he has become the king of New York.
If fashion is a language, Browne is exactly a poet who through his sartorial universe takes us to dreamy places. The models on the runway were transformed into winged creatures with cocoon-like coats, extra-long jackets, skirts in every possible length and shrunken argyle cardigans. Not a single hemline, textile overexposure or color set was repeated on any garment. Each look had its own story to tell, while being part of a whole that screamed Thom Browne at every seam.
All featured Browne’s signature twist: English tweeds, silk vichy check shirts and details like suede elbow patches, lined buttons and detachable collars. The preppy aesthetic materialized in collegiate references, with the number “65” embroidered on a tweed soccer jersey and a chocolate brown suede varsity jacket, a nod to his birth year.
And then came the birds. Not only in the form of prints or embroidery, but as true works of textile art. Surrealistic herons with endless legs, magpies embroidered in gold thread stealing Swarovski crystals, imaginary birds born from the game “exquisite corpse” on herringbone and herringbone fabrics. At the height of maximalism, a trompe l’oeil dress composed of 3,500 crystals replicated the classic Browne uniform with a level of detail that bordered on the impossible.
Skirts and dresses also played with the idea of movement: twisted pleats contoured the body, origami-inspired silhouettes and unfinished petticoats peeked out from under trompe l’oeil silk dresses. The house’s iconic bags, from the beloved Hector to the classic Mr. & Mrs. Thom completed Browne’s dreamlike experience making it believable, because it was.
The grand finale starred a model in a gray blazer embroidered with gold thread and an extremely puffy tweed skirt that had movement in every step, it seemed to float. And that’s how Browne had us throughout the show: floating, as if we were in a dream. After all, the designer reminds us in each of his fashion shows that the impossible can materialize and he is one of the few who today continues to build a world in which tailoring becomes pure dream come true.
To see more about New York Fashion Week, click here.
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