The Palace of Trussardi in the heart Piazza della Scalais witness to the work of Benjamin A. Huseby y Serhat Işık, which is based on the juxtaposition and friction of sobriety and glamour.
As if it were an anthropological study of Milanese society, they looked at the original icon of Milan street fashion: the ‘Sciura’. This Italian fashion symbol is reworked through the eye of the pair of designers.
The result is a collection that presents silhouettes and archival codes reworked in a modern and sharper key, optimal for the new century. The color palette is as Trussardi’s historic shades are imagined: brown, cranberry, ecru and maroon. The pieces are designed as if they were to attend a ballroom party or to be illuminated under the opening lights of the Teatro alla Scala.
Taking inspiration from tapestries often found in gilded palazzos, a traditional gobelin jacquard is found on voluminous jackets, oversized totes and a skirt-blanket. Coats in Casentino wool, a fabric that dates back to the 14th century, are modernized with exaggerated hourglass silhouettes and oversized collars. Nordic coats in floor-length coated nylon have a leather-like sheen. And as the jewel in the crown appears the quintessential sciura coat: a masculine hazelnut-colored faux fur model.
The cocktail dresses are constructed from a slip shape with bias cuts and draped necklines. One of them is made of micropatterned floral lace; another, in bright blue, has a halter neck and ruffled hem.
A touch of glamour is introduced through crystal appliqués and embroidery on dresses, gloves and pants.
Accessories include wide, loose-fitting hobo bags and smaller, wave-shaped shoulder bags in shiny crocodile-print leather. The pumps feature delicate straps buckled over the neckline and reveal the house’s ouroboros greyhound emblem on the back of the heel.
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