Yesterday, around Brick Lane in London, a few posters appeared on the streets showing Tyler, The Creator wearing Supreme’s classic boxlogo t-shirt. While the rapper could simply be the image of Supreme’s latest lookbook, these photos could also suggest that a collaboration is on the horizon. Or, perhaps -let us dream- that Supreme already has its new creative director.
The streetwear giant now faces the challenge of staying relevant amidst the comings and goings of the business. Let’s remember its recent acquisition by EssilorLuxottica for 1.5 billion dollars. A price that, while high, reflects a depreciation from the $2.1 billion VF Corporation paid for it in 2020, indicating that the brand may be losing its lustre in the global market. But what can Supreme do to regain its relevance in an era where nostalgia is no longer enough?
Tyler, The Creator, who helped put Supreme on the radar of Odd Future fans back in 2011, could be the answer. His relationship with Supreme goes back a long way. Since the release of the ‘Yonkers’ music video, which featured a panel of five Supreme caps, Tyler has been an unofficial ambassador for the brand. That same year, Supreme opened its first European shop in London, a move that coincided with the rise in popularity of Tyler and his band, attracting hypebeasts, Odd Future enthusiasts and skateboarders alike. In 2010, his song ‘Orange Juice’ gives a specific shout-out to Supreme: ‘Box Logo hoodies and goodies from buddies that understand. That Bastard was buzzing like Woody so we get it for free’. And a year later, the Grammy Award-winning artist wore a box logo to the MTVU Woodie Awards, and a leopard-print Supreme cap while accepting the award for Best New Artist at the MTV Video Music Awards.
The rapper’s endorsement of Supreme has been crucial in positioning the brand at the forefront of pop culture. And it’s no surprise to see him starring in the brand’s latest campaign. Yes, the brand retains certain elements of its identity, as is evident with this recent move, but it has fallen into something of a rut, becoming predictable and losing the hype that once characterised it. Instead of remaining a symbol of counterculture, Supreme seems to have become a shadow of its former self, with a ‘F*ck You’ attitude that now rings hollow.
So is Tyler, The Creator the solution? Maybe he is. Tyler doesn’t just understand youth culture; he is a central figure in it. From his rise with Odd Future to his GOLF WANG brand, he has proven himself to be a visionary, someone who knows how to capture the essence of the culture and turn it into a global phenomenon. In many ways, Tyler has already done in his career what Supreme needs to do: evolve without losing its essence.
Tyler’s idea as Supreme’s Creative Director might seem radical, but it is precisely this kind of change that Supreme might need to rise from the ashes. With his deep understanding of subcultures and his ability to connect with the younger generation, Tyler could be the leader Supreme needs to reconnect with its audience and reclaim its place in the top tier of streetwear brands. Not only that, but Tyler already has vast experience as a creative, not only with his brand but with personal projects such as the recent collaboration with Louis Vuitton, where he proved that he can tackle a full collection that connects with the community and at the same time can be a sales success. If anyone can bring Supreme back to relevance and authenticity, it’s Tyler, The Creator. Is the brand ready to make that leap? Time will tell.
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