On Friday night, under the imposing walls of the American Cathedral in Paris, Willy Chavarria made his long-awaited debut at Paris Fashion Week, a setting as majestic as it was fitting for the triumphant entrance of this Mexican-American designer, recognised as Menswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA. Tarantula, his Fall 2025 proposal, unfolded as a visceral ode to identity, resilience and the creator’s personal history, fusing elements of his biracial heritage and upbringing among immigrant communities in California’s San Joaquin Valley.
Each garment in the collection, which exudes an unwavering connection to its roots, exuded a palpable emotional charge, with a visual narrative that resonated beyond the catwalk. In a context as symbolic as the Cathedral, Chavarria unveiled a range of pieces that fused romance and toughness in a manifesto of beauty, strength and duality. Jackets adorned with roses, western hats decorated with flowers and sensual costumes, suggesting a lacerating vulnerability, were the centrepiece of a staging that mesmerised all present. The culmination of the show came when J Balvin, in addition to parading alongside Tokischa, also treated the audience to an intimate performance.
Chavarria elevated the language of workwear and athleisure with a baroque palette of golds, blues, reds and purples. High-end Italian fabrics – such as silks, velvets and bouclé cashmere – were intertwined with Chavarria’s philosophy of redefining luxury, imbued with an aesthetic of strength and softness in equal measure. The diversity of his casting – which ranged from muscular men to long-haired figures, short boys, mature men in their 40s and 50s, and non-binary models – was a direct statement: fashion has no gender, let alone boundaries.
Behind the scenes, the face of fashion became even more humanised. One model, who by day works as a pizza delivery boy in New York, shared how Chavarria discovered him through a viral video of him preparing a fresh pie at a local restaurant. ‘It’s amazing to be part of something so big,’ he said, highlighting the Latino representation in Paris and the importance of being part of a movement that honours authenticity. This story, like so many others in the show, embodies the essence of the Chavarria brand: a tribute to real people, with their struggles, dreams and lives behind them.
The show also featured Chavarria’s second collaboration with adidas, which took the form of a ’90s-inspired capsule with sneakers that reinterpret combat boots, a perfect blend of functionality and style. In addition, its partnership with Return to Vendor resulted in recyclable eyewear that defies traditional fashion, created from reclaimed finishing nets. In parallel, work with South Central Project led to the creation of four silk scarves, illustrated with the images of photographer Carlos Jaramillo’s Illumine Tu Camino series, a visual homage to light emerging from darkness.
“Tarantula” is not just a collection: it is a statement of intent. It is a narrative that, through textures, proportions and colours, builds an omnipresent wardrobe, which dwells at the intersection of hardness and softness, charoscuro and delicacy. “When the thunder breaks, it breaks for you and for me. Under hoarse skies, my kiss is as soft and gentle as a tarantula’s hair”. And, like a tarantula, Chavarria’s Paris debut left an indelible mark, sending tantalising shivers down the spine of the cathedral, ushering in a new era for the designer.
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