After blowing Milan Fashion Week away with a Diesel show to remember, Glenn Martens was in Paris as usual to present Y/Project SS24 collection. Avoiding giving concrete answers and opting more for proposing open-ended questions, the symphony of expression in Martens’ new installment is a constant search for versatility and pragmatism.
The harmonious fusion of textile experimentation and structural articulation demands a shift in our conceptions of ornamentation in design. This season, an intrinsic modulation is introduced that allows for limitless transformation, creating sculptural gestures that defy gravity and evoke a dark majesty in certain gothic looks.
Foiling on the outside and cabling on the inside bring to life dynamic fabric vertices and spikes that protrude from the body, creating ever-changing and ever-evolving forms. Recognizable archetypes fade into abstraction, but retain the ability to return to classic proportions if desired by the wearer. Hook-and-eye closures, as well as snap studs, offer countless possibilities for configuring the garment in different ways. From bifurcated lingerie dresses to parkas, these elements are layered over two-tone denim or leather to create billowy, hooded workwear.
La tensión persiste en la sastrería de cuello halter suspendida de forros fluidos y en los vestidos escalonados que se disuelven en dobladillos en espiral de satén de doble cara y tafetán iridiscente. Las impresiones de memoria, como si estuvieran quemadas en tela, recuerdan al trompe l’oeil de los vestidos degradados de punto, que delinean los contornos del cuerpo y reflejan la fragilidad y las emociones amplificadas de la temporada en un intrigante plano bidimensional.
Tension persists in halter-neck tailoring suspended from fluid linings and tiered dresses that dissolve into swirling hemlines of double-sided satin and iridescent taffeta. Memory prints, as if burned into fabric, recall the trompe l’oeil of degraded knit dresses, outlining the contours of the body and reflecting the fragility and amplified emotions of the season on an intriguing two-dimensional plane.
Y/Project’s SS24 features everything the brand is known for. Glenn Martens invites us once again this season to challenge conventions and explore the intersection between fashion and art. In this way, he brings us a proposal that goes from the most everyday wardrobe to real red carpet looks.
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