Summer has officially begun on the American East Coast, at least in Thom Browne’s imagination. For his Summer Edit 2025, the New York designer unleashes a pre-American fantasy through his unmistakable filter: deconstructed tailoring. But his obsession smells more like an elite campus than a beach bar on the coast.
The campaign, photographed by Kito Muñoz, is reminiscent of those movie summers that no one lived but everyone idealizes. Beautiful people, weird posture, looks that don’t look for likes? It’s The Hamptons meets an eternal Sunday at some boarding school: sharp silhouettes, college stripes and fabrics like linen, seersucker, poplin, or summer tweed.
Everything in the collection looks like something out of a yacht club in 1963, but re-edited for someone who listens to Arca while ironing his socks: knitted polo shirts with surgical fit, white denim suits with 4-bar, shirt dresses that seem stolen from the wardrobe of a Wes Anderson movie, but with the precision of a pattern surgeon. There’s something about these looks that works as well for an absurd wedding in Tuscany as it does for a dinner on the Upper East Side where, as hard as it is to believe, no one is smiling.
The accessories do their thing: the new Mr. Thom soft in brown leather is the relaxed version of the designer’s classic bag, with all the energy of “I’m not trying to impress, but I’m doing it anyway”. The same goes for the heritage sneakers and varsity loafers that finish off the looks. And the glasses? Titanium and acetate. Smoke, cream, transparent blue lenses. To look without being read.
This is Thom Browne’s summer version: for those who won’t take off their jackets even when it’s 35 degrees Celsius.
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