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After the decline always comes austerity, a shot of calm. Maison Margiela FW19 collection focuses on the purification of the Internet world, the overload of images and stimuli.
Through Tchaikovsky’s “Lake of Swans“, Galliano alludes to the idea of transforming a person into a swan. White swans and black swans that reveal themselves against overexposure. The models with the head covered with feathers enter into a constant dialogue between the masculine and feminine, which makes the identity between the sexes extremely fluid.
The non-binary is the current order within the gender policy. As Galliano confirmed, it is a mixed collection. For this reason, once again, the trans teenage Finn Buchanan was in charge of opening the parade. The 16-year-old Londoner reflected during an interview that “children have short hair, girls have long hair … But what is a boy? What is a girl? They are things that are embedded. If it is embedded in our parents’ generation, then it is transmitted to us, unless we question it. ”
In fact, this same topic was already present at London Fashion Week with the short film “Reality Inverse” that Maison Margiela made in collaboration with SHOWStudio. It is a visual conversation between John Galliano and Nick Knight.
The runway was characterized by its simplicity, a white track without decoration or striking lights. The clothes were undoubtedly the protagonist, interesting enough to attract the attention of the attendees. It erases the streetwear and the gender categorizations with which the youth has grown. This new energy is closely related to the students of Central Saint Martins that bring their ideas to Galliano himself.
In the collection, entitled “Défilé”, we find trends that have emerged in other runways this season such as the New York padding or the dramatic shoulders and waists of Milan, always with a Margiela touch.
With regard to garments, it focuses mainly on basics, tailoring, coats, pantsuits and skirts. The use of classic pieces to create new forms, among which we find a flannel coat cut like a dress, a leather coat transformed into shorts, pants redesigned in skirts, dresses and capes. Asymmetries, oversize and psychedelic prints. The color palette mixes black, gray and ivory, combined with the flamenco motif.
It breaks with the classic tones of masculine fabrics made in collaboration with Mackintosh, which act as a common thread for the entire collection. And is that degeneration is another of the ideas that inspire this collection, using traditional fabrics such as flannel or felt. A clear example is the Harris tweed coat cut to create a short square jacket combined with jacquard pants and leather boots. As it could not be otherwise in the gender-free universe of Galliano, the look was worn by a man.
Maison Margiela FW19
On the other hand, the chalk traces that imitate the guides that a tailor uses and the seams in view of the two-piece suits did not go unnoticed, serving as a decorative element and as a reminder of the complexity and knowledge necessary to create the pieces. All the clothes in the collection need a designer with a lot of practical skill to achieve it. Perhaps these creations at first glance seem simple but, in reality, hide a great difficulty.
Definitely, John Galliano has surprised again. This time with the exhibition of exaggerated volumes and unlikely patterns in neutral colors alternating them with patterns of vibrant tonalities without losing the Margiela essence.