READ IN: Español

At the Yoyogi National Gymnasium in Tokyo, Marni presented its FW23 collection: an ode to primary colours and maximalist silhouettes.


The RYB (Red, Yellow, Blue) model is a traditional subtractive colour synthesis model in which the primary colours are red, yellow and blue. With the Tokyo Chamber Orchestra in the background, conducted by Dev Hynes, Marni presented its Autumn/Winter 2023 collection inspired by primary colours and with maximalist and very powerful dimensions.

At each seat, creative director Francesco Risso, left a written note: “Why do I make clothes? Because they are our companions, and there is more to it than kissing in the air. I don’t know if I make clothes that people need, or if I make clothes that people need, or if I make clothes for people who urgently need clothes that need them…. What I do know is that today we need less and less unnecessary clothes”.

As mentioned above, this FW23 collection only used black, white, yellow and red. Polka dots, often reminiscent of Yayoi Kusama’s works, proved to be a central motif for Marni FW23. Likewise, the grid graphic was also very present. Another highlight was the XXL dimensions of the garments.

Tailoring came in oversize, though more often in jackets and coats. Knitwear also appeared frequently in the form of puffed mohair jumpers, duvet coats, trousers and square-shouldered dresses. Puffers were one of the highlights with their unstructured shape falling from the models’ shoulders.

Carhartt WIP and Marni surprise with a very floral collaboration.