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The designer, known for her careful mix of street, sport and tailoring, created a collection around different male characters: the perverse banker, the sports director and even the online sex worker, whom she referred to as the “webcam guys”.
“I had fun with those characters,” said Rose, who played with proportion and traditionally male silhouettes. Her models wore silk shirts, lace edged handle blouses, faded jeans, lingerie with garters… A little bit of everything, really.
Rose also took sport as an inspiration, taking those subtle stripes from soccer shirts. Men’s sports shorts shrank to the point of being so small and tight they acted like underwear.
Nothing is what it seems with Martine Rose’s SS21 collection. However, it works. The combination of so many worlds tells us about hypermasculinity and expectations, culminating in a perfect deconstruction of what we know today.