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Schiaparelli opens Haute Couture Week at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs of Paris, starting from a black canvas to capture her entire universe. In what is her most orthodox proposal to date, the show coincides with the premiere of the exhibition “Shocking Chic’, a retrospective of the maison and its founder.

After last year’s astronomy lesson, in this edition Schiaparelli has decided to focus on nature. On the one hand, we find a real floral display, which we can find in dresses, hats, corsets, appliqués for the breasts and as earrings. On the other hand, we can see fruit allusions in several pieces: a bunch of grapes as earrings hanging down the neckline, as a brooch or as an embroidery on a jacket. As an element of nature, the recurring motif of the white dove also appears.

Volumes were another mainstay of the collection. These make reference to the Victorian-inspired costumes that Elsa would put in value in the middle of the last century. Now, Daniel Roseberry recovers that legacy and materializes it in the form of strapless dresses with meters and meters of satin fabric. Swirling at the hips, they create impossible volumes that evoke the petals of a flower.

Accessories continue to be an essential part of the brand’s dreamlike universe, and it is not only the aforementioned jewelry. This season, gondolier hats take center stage. Likewise, the shoes take up the maxims of spring-summer 2022 and bet on the design with golden toes.

When the legacy is so immense, it is even more difficult to highlight the elements that symbolize the brand. However, Daniel Roseberry knows how to do it with true mastery. Thus, the famous padlock, DNA of the brand, becomes a charm of the Schiaparelli woman. We find it in velvet choker necklaces with other motifs such as the heart and the cross.

You probably expected Roseberry to opt again to focus on the surrealist designs that drove the brand. Instead, he showed the most orthodox Haute Couture collection to date, highlighting the most hidden legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli. A legacy, which by the way, you can get to know if you go to the exhibition, open until January 22, 2023.

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