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Absolute purity was what enhanced and divinized Vaccarello’s winter collection for Saint Laurent presented at the monumental Bourse de Commerce in Paris. A collection in which fluidity, timelessness and minimalism converged as hallmarks of this new episode for the maison that will crystallize forever in the history of fashion.
That overwhelming glamour captivated all the attendees of this fashion show for the FW23-34 season exhibited in the midst of that celestial space by Japanese architect Tadao Ando in which the models seemed to evoke classical statues in movement. Dynamic sculptures that walked through the hall to the beat of Paul Prier‘s piano, dressed in monochromatic garments mostly in black tones that became a symbol of double sophistication and identity of the brand.
A NEW DIMENSION FOR LUXURY
Beyond the darkness, light was glimpsed through garments in white, beige or camel, which illuminated from tops to floor-length coats. A concept that highlights Vaccarello’s vision of classic luxury with which the creative director fuses masculine and feminine silhouettes, to present new archetypes of masculinity that dilute the archaic nature of gender in fashion. Thus, we could see how a series of elements or details that for a long time were framed in the feminine imaginary now adhere to this proposal, such as the elongated bows that decorated the white shirts in reference to Alber Elbaz’s period in the house.
The exploration of fluidity is also channeled throughout the proposal, glimpsed through coats with wide lapel details in wool, mohair or shiny patent leather. The collection also includes hooded garments, long knitted tunics with elongated collars and pants with streamlined panels that precisely project the Italian-Belgian designer‘s new direction at Saint Laurent, elevating his identity to a sublime plane where he introduces a new language for men’s wear.
The Maison’s FW23-24 proposal thus becomes the dreamlike representation of purity, perfection and aesthetic balance, which leads Saint Laurent to go beyond any subcultural influence, to connect with the timeless and the universal.