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Y/Project is not linear, there is something in the structure of the clothes that starts by drawing itself with an arbitrary line, without lifting the pencil from the paper, and rolls up into itself until it becomes a knot. The characteristic spiral of the earrings alludes to the same principle. The contempt for the obviousness of the straight line. And if the shortest distance between two points is the main virtue that we can find in the pattern of pure lines, Y/Project establishes its discourse in the wandering of the lines and the minimum obviousness.
After the success of their janties – denim panties – this season not only relocates that same concept and accompanies it with new textures as interesting as tights-pants, but extracts that V-cut from the pieces and creates a new silhouette that works in pants, suits, skirts and dresses, without resembling anything we have seen before.
Glenn Martens incorporates the exposed thong trend into one of these jeans and calls it “the ultimate showtopper”. The designer is comfortable in the apparent discomfort of his garments, while the fabrics are twisted into place. Styling plays a key role in the presentation of the collection. Shirts get tangled up in the neckline straps, slouchy handbags become giant accessories with a life of their own, and shoes incorporate an opening that leaves the big toe up in the air, a pulse at the edge of good taste.
The Fall 2020 collection by Y/Project echoes far-off times, creating the illusion of corset pieces, yet it unfolds its structure from the woman’s body, to fit her organically. Like the line that is distracted in the curves and confused with the wrinkles of the skin.