1017 ALYX 9SM returns to an exclusively masculine approach for SS24

When Matthew Williams created 1017 ALYX 9SM in 2015 as a women’s brand. However, it was his approach to menswear (or at least unisex) that has been receiving the most praise. Last night, on the first day of Milan Fashion Week, the brand returned to precisely what made it strong and presented an all-male collection for its upcoming SS24 season.

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The show we attended yesterday was a good compendium of everything that makes Matthew Williams’ universe great: clean-lined tailoring, technical materials that lead to utilitarian clothing, a sober colour palette, and his signature buckle.

The collection is dominated by an earthy colour palette with white accents and the appearance of blue jeans with checked shirts. Using the process of over-dyeing, Matthew creates eye-catching prints that give coats, waistcoats and trousers a worn-in look. The frayed fabrics add a raw, rebellious touch, while the interwoven pieces add contrast to the collection.

Alyx’s careful selection of fabrics redefines comfort and style for the new century while exploring elegance in cupro and cotton poplin ensembles. Matthew demonstrates his mastery for yet another season in introducing tailoring techniques into his design. This time, he delves into the world of intarsia, a masterful art that interweaves different threads to form intricate patterns for a variety of designs. The meticulously crafted leather outfits include the iconic Alyx buckle. There are bombers, jackets, waistcoats and trousers, as well as a range of bags and backpacks that showcase exquisite craftsmanship and unique leather processing specialities

The “A” logo that we saw last season in a more low key way, this SS24 arrives with a bang. The brand’s new logo is both overprinted and meticulously embroidered.

Following the natural evolution of FW23, in addition to the presence of the new logo, this season sees a further expansion of their footwear range with the iconic chunky sole. But the silhouette that has surprised the most is the new bootie-style silhouette, with a new closed variation of the Five Fingers sole that the designer has developed with the help of Vibram. 

Beyond fashions and trends, Matthew’s work makes every garment a wearable masterpiece. While we may see vintage-looking treatments that instil a nostalgic charm that is all too present today, and his graphic introductions add a modern touch, 1017 ALYX 9SM stays true to its DNA and gives us timeless pieces of a contemporary wardrobe.