The presentation of Saint Laurent SS24 took place in Rohe’s imposing glass pavilion topped with a steel roof, a far cry from the Moroccan deserts of his SS23 or the stylish Parisian setting.
Saint Laurent shows an evolved identity for this menswear season, drawing inspiration from the brand’s own feminine line and vice versa. Structure and lightness combine in pants that rise and fall in ankle-length pleats, and the upper garments feature broad shoulders or no shoulders at all.
The Saint Laurent tuxedo is paired with delicate satin tank tops, and the typically feminine Mousseline de Soie exudes eroticism without losing formality in the pieces. Muslin garments fall on the skin, leaving much of it uncovered, bringing sensuality and sophistication in equal parts as the main feature of the collection. Vacarello employs silk in cutout sarongs that knot at the shoulders and drape like feminine dresses. Fitted heeled boots accompany the looks from the background, giving prominence to the romantic pieces of the house’s most progressive collection to date.
Remember the last exhibition of Yves Saint Laurent, “Transparencies”.
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