Burberry FW24: the evolution of Great British style continues

In what is already his third collection for the house, Daniel Lee continues to elevate Burberry icons to maximum power.

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Heritage and tradition are two super important values for any self-respecting fashion house. Without them, its history cannot continue, being relegated to the background among a myriad of trends that come and go. But how to continue the tradition without falling into monotony, obsolescence and absolute boredom? Daniel Lee has the answer. With his characteristic ingenuity, he brings to life a new collection that not only respects the Burberry legacy but elevates it to a new expression of British luxury, perfectly adapted to the times.

In his third fashion show as artistic director of Burberry, the one-time creative head of Bottega Veneta, continues the tradition of erecting a huge tent in one of London’s iconic parks. This time it was the turn of Victoria Park, in a subdued atmosphere. The huge tent filled with green gravel sheltered in the darkness of the night iconic attendees such as Anna Wintour, Burberry regular Skepta, Central Cee, Saltburn star Barry Keoghan, Peggy Gou or Lila Moss, who took their seats on huge sheepskin poufs. Noami Campbell also made an appearance, but walking the runway in an anthracite-colored fringed dress decorated with pearls, like a walking moss.

The melancholy of Amy Winehouse’s “You Know I’m No Good” fills the space. Daniel Lee weaves the landscapes of England into every stitch and detail. The iconic Burberry symbols are transformed into an amalgam of form and texture, evoking a sense of warmth and comfort, provided by the warm garments that are the protagonists of the season. In a palette dominated by earth tones and green vegetation, each garment is infused with the essence of British landscapes and the people who inhabit them, from the green plains of Ireland to the rugged cliffs of Cornwall.

Coats become a sanctuary of comfort and style, where classic Burberry trench coats are reinvented in moleskin and durable canvas; sheepskin, braided fringe and wool become essential elements of the garments, cradling and protecting, reminding us that the Londoner needs to be prepared for any unforeseen day-to-day weather. The ancestral techniques of the British Isle are intertwined with Daniel Lee’s modern vision, which incorporates Burberry’s heritage in every detail: bags and shoes adopt the iconic motifs of the English house, from the emblematic foundations to the majestic Equestrian Knight.

Scarves, capes and furry collars and cuffs become shields against wind and rain. Elsewhere, collars pop open to reveal men’s and women’s chests, as do knee-baring zip-up pants, making clear the dance of outer and innerwear, which intertwine to create an easy, practical style without sacrificing an ounce of class.

By recruiting Daniel Lee, Burberry aimed to reinforce its status and return it to its position as one of London fashion week’s must-haves. In essence, Lee has been doing exactly what he was hired to do: make Burberry the brand of the British. And while Britain may be a hodgepodge of identities that make it difficult to articulate its traits in a single proposition, Lee has given us yet another season a lesson in true British style.

Check out Burberry Spring/Summer 2024 show here.