In the middle of Highbury Fields, Daniel Lee unfolded his second collection for Burberry. A collection in which the codes of the brand are evolved in every detail, from clothing to bags, shoes and jewelry. An absolute display of British codes in the contemporary era.
The event opened with a striking entrance, where a Norman’s food truck treated guests to Guinness breads and coffees, anticipating the experience we were about to witness. The staff, dressed in beige slacks and blue knit sweaters, marked a break from previous formality, conveying a more egalitarian luxury – albeit only an illusion – than last season. The scene in Lee’s neighborhood, wrapped in a giant tent, fused the essence of a day in the country with the utilitarian nature of military elements. Guests settled on green benches, covered with quilted blankets and carrying steel canteens. Dean Blunt’s music provided the sonic accompaniment that elevated the experience.
Almost no one missed the Burberry appointment. Kano, Jason Statham, Rosie Huntington y su marido, Kylie Minogue, Michael Ward, Jourdan Dunn, Naomi Campbell, Skepta, Burna Boy… a whole constellation of international stars, but above all British, attended one more of Lee’s successes in elevating Burberry to the place it occupied a few years ago.
The trench coat, the quintessential piece of the house, emerged as the star of the show. Smooth and buttoned, marking shoulders and hips, attached to jackets, with the belt shifted to the hips… An endless number of variations that highlighted what once made Burberry great. Prints of chains, padlocks and carabiners snaked through these garments and others such as silk shirts to cloth dresses, creating a fusion of tradition and innovation.
Red, white and royal blue, emblems of Britain, predominated on the runway, showing Lee’s mastery in adapting British codes to the modern era. The vivacious blue, which rescued the essence of the house along with the iconic rider, became a deep navy blue, leaving its mark throughout the collection. A blue-toned strawberry print adorned a dress, fusing natural elements with the British essence. In the brand’s words, these pieces aim to embrace “the clichés of British fruits and English meadows.”
Lee’s mastery of creating unforgettable accessories that we already knew from his time at Bottega Venetta, was highlighted in a Burberry logo maxi buckle belt, loafers with large clasps, glitter mules and all-terrain handbags. Each piece was a statement of style and elegance, proving that luxury can be a safe and comfortable place, without too much pretension needed.
Now, after a London Fashion week marked by shows such as Mowalola, JW Anderson and this one by Burberry, the attention of the fashion world turns to Milan. We will see what the Italian designers have been preparing this last months for us.
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