Alessandro Michele makes his debut on the Valentino catwalk

Spring 2025 marks the return of the eccentric Alessandro Michele – former Gucci designer – to the catwalks, who this time redirects his inexhaustible creative vision to the Valentino archives, reinventing tradition with his unmistakable contemporary touch.

After two years that seemed like forever, Michele reappears at the center of the fashion universe, exchanging the keys of Gucci for those of Valentino in his most anticipated debut. The setting was the iconic Porte de Chatillon in Paris, where celebrities like Harry Styles, Elton John and Jared Leto headlined the front row, while the rest of the fashion industry held its breath to witness the new era of the Italian house. How would Michele reinterpret the Valentino codes everyone thinks they know?

Presenting 85 looks that boil down his 171-piece Resort installment, Michele relives the history of the House, looking especially at the decades of the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s. But it’s not about nostalgia, it’s about radical reinvention. Tuxedo jackets that scream sophistication, ruffled dresses worthy of a fairy tale and pearly tops for men who are not afraid of excess. The runway show sparkled with XXL bow ties, hats overloaded with feathers and crystals embroidered with almost provocative precision.

Each look, taken on its own, was an explosion of eclecticism. Colors that clashed with elegance, prints that broke the established norms. Overall, the collection depicts a Valentino universe we had not seen before: aristocratic, defiant and with a regal aura that intimidates and seduces in equal parts. Michele brought us a show of regency taken to the extreme, an ode to classic opulence and contemporary spirit. And yes, the industry confirmed it with a standing ovation that echoed throughout Paris.

Alessandro Michele succeeds Pierpaolo Piccioli as Valentino’s creative director.