Daniel Roseberry continues to dominate the collective imagination through an exquisite touch of surrealism and historical references.
It all began in 1940, when Elsa Schiaparelli left Paris for New York. What seemed like the end of one era was, without knowing it, the beginning of another. And it is precisely at that moment, where the duality between extreme elegance and wartime chaos converge, that the DNA of this collection emerges.
Can a collection without colour speak of a future? In Schiaparelli‘s imagination, yes. The absence of colour here does not represent nostalgia, but renewal. A world where only art, form and memory exist. Gone are the corsets to give way to structures that define the female silhouette with a restrained, almost architectural dramatism. Volume is not ostentation, it is language. Waists are marked with precision. The hips, accentuated by unexpected techniques, evoke an imposing but at the same time light empowerment.
The symbols of the House – the eye, the padlock, the anatomical – dissolve and reappear in small details: handmade ceramics embedded in the tailoring, foulards with metric ribbons embroidered in silk thread, and references to the manual labour of the 1930s and 1940s that today take on a new meaning.
Fantasy pieces also emerge, such as Elsa‘s “Apolo” cape, now turned into a three-dimensional metallic constellation; or a white tulle dress with embroidery in the shape of shells. The “Elsa” jacket, reinterpreted with sharp shoulders and fabrics with narrative weight, becomes a new armour of the present.
It is too easy to romanticise the past. It is too easy to fear the present. In January 1941, Elsa returned to Paris for a brief visit despite the war, stopping first in Portugal, where she delivered 13,000 vitamin capsules to the French minister in Lisbon on behalf of the American-French War Relief. In May of that year, he returned to New York and was reunited with many of his Surrealist friends and compatriots who had also sought refuge there. This collection is a reminder that looking back is of no use if we cannot find something meaningful to contribute to our future.
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