The Burberry fashion show under the creative direction of Daniel Lee was one of the most anticipated moments of London Fashion Week. A collection inhabited by all the British archetypes, full of light, roses and emotion. We tell you all about Lee’s debut for the British house.
The anticipation surrounding the Bradford designer’s foray into the cult brand had all spheres of fashion on tenterhooks. But Lee, through his AW23 proposal, not only took the house into a new era or modern dimension but also paid homage to its archival roots. A magical trail that we could already see reflected in his time at Bottega Veneta, bewitching the whole identity of the brand, and bringing it to a climax.
This proposal for the AW23 womenswear season framed in LFW, becomes a true ode to England, and the rediscovery of the British character of the luxury brand. Daniel Lee thus deployed on a small enclave or park in Kennington a huge tent filled with brown Burberry plaid cushions and cozy blankets that sheltered iconic attendees such as Naomi Campbell or Anna Wintour.
This became the stage on which Daniel Lee presented a series of British characters and archetypes: from punks to fox hunters. Without forgetting the English rose, as a constant that bloomed in the form of prints and words in a poetic way, while Burial put the soundtrack to his whole universe.
“THE WINDS OF CHANGE”
The collection thus paid homage to the English rose in a collection in which flexible knit columns were ruffled in the shape of rosebuds, or long-cut jackets were printed with rose motifs. “A rose is not always a rose” read one of his T-shirts.
But beyond that bucolic reference, elegance and tradition ran through all the pieces, this time remastered to connect with the modern era through asymmetrical draped scarf dresses or large doses of tartan in different electric tones. Burberry’s signature checks were presented in vibrant colors such as klein blue in tailoring, blanket coats and knitwear.Covering that whole beauty exploration scenario were a series of oversized trench coats with faux fur lapels, as well as classic deconstructed coats, combined with a footwear offering that also crystallized all the looks present. XXL rubber rain boots coexisted with sneakers or square sandals, mules and pumps, some of them embellished with hints of faux fur and shearling.
Finally, the creative director explored the art of the bizarre and extravagance through his accessories, with knitted duck hats or fox tails hanging from pockets and bag handles, referring to the high social spheres that wear Burberry.
In short, Daniel Lee has managed in just six months at the helm of the brand to revolutionize the British brand’s identity and take it to an exciting new dimension. Because this Burberry is forever.
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