Chanel once again redefines the boundaries of haute couture

In its Autumn/Winter 2023/24 Haute Couture show, Chanel has once again done what it does best: honour its heritage and its roots.

When the iconic fashion house unveiled its latest creations on the banks of the Seine, it was clear that Chanel directed by Virginie Viard had once again redefined the boundaries of haute couture. Inspired by the Parisian woman, this time embodied by Vanessa Paradis, one of the house’s historic ambassadors, the collection perfectly captured the timeless essence of the Maison while exuding an updated sensibility with each meticulously crafted piece.

Following the first look by iconic French model Caroline de Maigret, Vittoria Ceretti took over the runway in a look comprised of a tweed pencil skirt, matching maxi coat with a sheer top and Mary-jane, cementing herself as the new favourite shoe of the season. The collection includes fruit and flower embroideries reminiscent of still lifes from the pictorial arts. This idea is also evident in the flower baskets worn by models such as Amelia Gray.

Suits and coats are reinvented with updated tweeds as is the norm at La Maison. The skirt becomes another key item in the collection with its different lengths. New creative director Virginie Viard pairs a long skirt with a boho blouse and an over-the-knee skirt with a striped blouse belted at the hip. There is also the option of a slightly smaller skirt, paired with an elaborate crop-top with straps and embroidered flowers.

The French brand also plays with different silhouettes and finishes on the dresses. Some of them come in the shape of a balloon, others put the focus on the waist and hips, through golden accessories that frame them. The chiffon and tulle are added in a delicate way, as a train, or as a cape, like the one with multiple black ruffles worn by model Quannah Chasinghorse.