Controversy at Kering: Change of Creative Direction at Alexander McQueen Generates Disputes

The Kering group has sparked controversy with the recent appointment of Seán McGirr as creative director of Alexander McQueen, succeeding the prominent Sarah Burton, who dedicated more than two decades to the firm. This decision, announced after the Paris Fashion Week, has triggered strong criticism towards the conglomerate owner of the brand, due to the absence of women in creative leadership roles within their fashion houses.

After 26 years of invaluable contributions to Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton is stepping down as creative director, leaving behind a legacy that has shaped the fashion industry. Her successor, Seán McGirr, formerly in charge of ready-to-wear at JW Anderson, faces the challenge of maintaining the brand’s innovative and avant-garde essence. Likewise, McGirr’s choice reflects a trend in the fashion industry to bet on lesser-known designers to lead prestigious brands. This strategy seeks to inject freshness and new perspectives into established fashion houses.

But McGirr’s appointment has drawn harsh criticism of the Kering group. The decision to replace a leading female designer with a man has generated controversy, especially in a context where women are still struggling for equal representation in leadership roles in the fashion industry. Right now, all of the group’s creative directors are white men.

Dissenting voices point out that this change is not only an unfortunate step backward in the quest for gender equity, but also a discouraging message for women designers aspiring to senior positions at renowned fashion houses. The absence of opportunities for female talent in high-level roles, such as creative director, may discourage many from pursuing their dreams in the industry.

The change in creative direction at Alexander McQueen has left a map that is certainly not encouraging for women in the industry. This raises questions about the role of conglomerates and their responsibility in promoting diversity and equity in the design world.