The expectation was palpable considering that the free tickets to the fashion show were sold out in minutes. First reserved for 1,500 lucky students from Milan’s universities and then for the general public. The message was clear: Glenn Martens once again opened Diesel’s doors to all fans of the iconic “D”.
Although the night was marked by rain, that did not stop the 7000 passionate followers of the brand to attend the show, which in a few minutes would become one of the most important events not only of Wednesday night of Fashion Week but of the whole season. Last night’s moment was reminiscent of the epic Allianz Cloud Arena show. The massive show of the SS23 season would change Diesel’s course towards a new, more democratic era. Now, we are only looking at the second chapter of Diesel Democracy, Glenn Martens’ dream of turning the brand experience into a space accessible to all.
Amid the rain that soaked the runway of the Scalo Farini courtyard, the models burst in from all angles and the gigantic backdrop screen revealed in maximum detail the 73 looks. A real sensory explosion, a storm of creativity that resounded in front of the 7000 guests this mega fashion show in the middle of a free 8-hour rave with NTS.
Functionality is taken to the extreme, with a collection that, just by the sheer number of looks it features, leaves no one indifferent. Denim tops, pants and zippered skirts offer unmatched versatility, allowing them to be worn independently or combined to create avant-garde boiler suits. What at first glance appear to be cargo pants reveal themselves to be ingenious cargo pockets joined by straps, a testament to Diesel’s meticulous and bold approach.
But the real genius comes with the belt pouches, transformed into functional garments. Three belt pouches joined together give life to a sleek bandeau top, while three draped pouches create a dazzling mini skirt. This revolutionary approach proves that Diesel doesn’t just follow trends, it creates them. The Devoré technique, one of Martens’ fortes, dominated the runway. That worn effect was accentuated with prints in a thousand shapes and colors. From devoré denim printed with the iconic red logo to burnt camouflage and embellished with stones. Every garment screamed DIESEL.
Even though it was a massive display of denim and “torn” garments, it was nice to see Martens in a different register. Used to seeing him doing denim couture and going crazy with rips and Ds, his foray into more sophisticated pieces has felt like a breath of fresh air. This new face of Martens has been seen in dresses with seams that create the illusion that a bra and thong are above the main piece. Some are gathered, others are tight to the body. Lines that emulate underwear appear in contrasting color, but then turn the same shade in a gold lurex dress, like an Oscar statue.
Because that’s what this season has also been about: celebrating cinema in all its glory. Diesel has given us a VIP pass to its own Hollywood studio. Stunning movie posters adorn the pieces in the collection, with an eclectic selection in the best Diesel style, making their own versions of movies like Spice World or Batman on t-shirts, jackets and endless seasonal pieces.
Continuing the cinematic celebration, after last night’s party where “only the brave” gathered at Scalo Farini, the space will remain open to the public from September 22-24 to enjoy the film festival created by Diesel. Film geeks will be able to have access for three days to a selection of the best of our time. On the screen where last night we saw the looks in detail, you can enjoy films like Mulholland Drive, Fight Club or Parallel Mothers. One more excuse to gather the “D” faithful in a multitudinous experience.
With this new collection, Glenn Martens shows us once again that Diesel knows no limits. From the collection, to the atmosphere created, to the free film festival in the coming days, there is no barrier. Not even the rain could dissuade the loyal fans, who remained steadfast, immersed in the unique experience that Diesel gave us for yet another season.
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