The Dior Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2023-2024 show perpetuates the cult of goddesses, reinterprets the emblems of antiquity and becomes a contemporary ritual that illustrates the strength and fragility of femininity. By evoking the past, it guides us towards a vision of the future imbued with sensitivity and attention to detail.
Maria Grazia Chiuri pursues her ideals with this Dior Autumn-Winter 2023-2024 haute couture collection, which refines to perfection the sartorial elements that can be described as archetypal: the tunic, the peplum, the cape and the stole. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s meeting with Marta Roberti, an artist whose work transforms the catwalk into an art gallery, is part of this return to sacred roots.
“I studied the iconographies of various goddesses, almost always associated with animals, and I presented myself by imitating their postures in a theatrical way, copying their poses and movements with my body, embodying their peculiarities until I made them my own.” The creative director of the Dior Women lines is inspired by the words and approach of Marta Roberti and immerses herself in the poetic gesture of haute couture through the fusion of dress and body.
The models compose a hieratic sequence and follow in the footsteps of the divinities who have dominated and continue to dominate the world. A vertical silhouette, flat shoes. The colours selected are white, beige, silver and pale gold. Jackets and coats are structured with pleats under the chest, evoking classical statues and fluted columns.
Pearls, symbols of purity, are included in numerous embroideries, and intertwined with silver threads to create an iridescent sheen. The shimmering textures of the sixties return to the fore in long skirts and dresses. Wool and cashmere take centre stage. A cape evoking a sacred garment, sometimes embroidered, sublimates different looks. Pleating dominates the sleeves of men’s jackets.
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