Silvia Venturini, Kim Jones and Delfina Delettrez make a great team. That’s the first conclusion we’ve come to after seeing Fendi’s autumn/winter 22 collection presented on Via Solari during the first day of Milan Fashion Week (MFW).
Great and spectacular, that’s the next thing that came to mind when we saw the official return of the emblematic Italian fashion house to massive fashion shows, in which the youngest of the Hadids, Bella, was in charge of opening the “show”. As soon as we saw Bella enter the stage, we knew that the proposal of these 3 great creative directors was going to be a success.
And so it was. Surprising but true. But it was even more surprising to learn that for the first time one of the Italian brand’s designers, specifically Silvia’s daughter, Delfina (Fendi’s creative director of jewellery), has served as inspiration for Kim Jones when designing the collection, because as Jones said just before the show, part of the proposal for next autumn/winter comes from having seen Delettrez in the Rome office wearing a vintage blouse of her mother’s, belonging to the 1986 Fendi collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld. To which K.J. said: “I took it off her back and put it on the research bar”. For this reason, we refer to the concept of family, as once again the story of daughters digging through their mothers’ wardrobes to borrow some heirlooms is repeated. From there, the rest is the work and art of the British designer, who brought a sense of lightness and delicacy to the garments in a cool, romantic style (a characteristic feature of Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 2000 collection), coloured the print, collapsed the more obviously eighties proportions of the tailoring of that show into separate garments, some in menswear, some in denim.
And speaking of tailoring, did you notice the tweed jackets or the trousers? Because we did. First of all, as for the jackets this time they have taken a new direction and have been transformed into slimmer and longer ones, with softly shaped or fitted waists just below the ribcage and collars turned up towards the neck combined (sometimes) with high-waisted trousers, thus lengthening the leg, and better still, enhancing the woman’s figure. Another of the pieces that most caught our attention from the tailored garments were the corsets or bustiers (some of them made of leather) with asymmetrical finishes.
Last but not least, we can’t end a review of a new Fendi collection without talking about one of the most important parts of the brand. What is it? Accessories. This field has always been one of the most profitable for the iconic fashion house. And we have to mention that Kim Jones has arrived at a very opportune moment, as this year marks the 25th anniversary of the iconic “Baguette” bag that Carrie Bradshaw made so famous all over the world. And who better than him to reimagine them? We can’t think of anyone, to be honest. Let’s see what he surprises us with. How do you carry any of Fendi’s bags today? Like the models did, with long gloves in pastel colours.
If you haven’t had a chance to see the show yet, do it now by clicking here.
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