Gosha Rubchinskiy returns to the industry as the creative head of Yeezy

In a dramatic turn of events, Kanye West has announced via his X account that Gosha Rubchinskiy will be joining Yeezy as head of design. West’s decision to bring in the Russian creative, known for his post-Soviet aesthetic and previous collaborations with big-name brands, marks a significant shift in the brand’s creative direction.

Rubchinskiy’s addition to the Yeezy team came as an immediate surprise. West, founder of Yeezy, highlighted the importance of the addition, calling it a “milestone in the history of design” in a tweet that surprised many, given his secretive nature about the inner workings of the brand.

Gosha Rubchinskiy, renowned not only for his own brand but also for previous collaborations with Burberry, Fila, Dr. Martens, Levi’s and Adidas, has been in the media spotlight his entire career. His past collaborations with Adidas have been the subject of criticism, especially in relation to Russian President Vladimir Putin. So if we take into account Gosha Rubchinskiy’s controversial resume, the news of his joining Yeezy comes as no surprise.

West and Rubchinskiy’s history is intertwined not only in their association with Yeezy, but also in their previous experiences with Adidas. Both designers had abrupt relationships with the sportswear brand, each marked by separate controversies. In 2018, Adidas suspended its collaboration with Rubchinskiy due to controversies related to messages allegedly exchanged with a minor. West, meanwhile, has faced controversies of his own, including anti-Semitic statements in 2022 and accusations of inappropriate behaviour. His partnership with Adidas for the Yeezy line, which began in 2013 and intensified in 2016, was significant in terms of annual sales for the sports brand. However, Adidas’ recent decision to end the Yeezy line will have a substantial financial impact for Ye’s brand, estimated at €1.2 billion for the 2023 financial year.

It also seems that the Russian creative, judging by what he has posted on Instagram, is involved in the creative direction of everything related to Kanye’s new album, Vultures, which would maintain Kanye’s tradition of giving the reins to big names linked to fashion (as he did with Virgil Abloh or Riccardo Tisci at other times in his career). A tradition that is now moving towards a post-Soviet aesthetic, also typical of the Gvasalia brothers, which seems to be what is currently inspiring the rapper.

Gosha Rubchinskiy has used this moment to announce the relaunch of his eponymous brand. On her social networks she shared a story with a black background in which she declared: “WE’RE DELIGHTED TO INTRODUCE THE NEW DIRECTION OF THE GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY FASHION BRAND AS AN INDEPENDENT CREATIVE POWERHOUSE. STEPPING AWAY FROM THE COMME DES GARÇONS AND RASSVET FAMILY, OUR BRAND IS FORGING ITS OWN PATH.

UNDER GOSHA’S CREATIVE LEADERSHIP WE ARE SET TO EMBRACE EXCITING NEW PROJECTS AND COLLABORATIONS THAT EMBODY OUR SPIRIT OF INDEPENDENCE AND CREATIVE DRIVE. WE’RE THANKFUL FOR THE CONTINUOUS SUPPORT FROM OUR COMMUNITY THAT FUELS OUR JOURNEY.” But it is not yet known when we will be able to see the first collection from Gosha’s imagination.

Be that as it may, the addition of Gosha Rubchinskiy to Yeezy raises questions about the creative direction the brand will take and how this partnership will influence the industry. Only time will reveal how the combined vision of two leading figures in the contemporary fashion world will shape Yeezy’s future.