The collections designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri are characterised by their creativity and boundless inventiveness. For the Dior ready-to-wear SS23 show, the creative director of Dior Woman was inspired by an image of a map of Paris, as well as by the Italian noblewoman and consort of France Catherine de Medici, a key figure in the relationship between women and power.
Chiuri traces his own path between autobiography and reflection by drawing inspiration from Avenue Montaigne. The second protagonist is the Tuileries garden, commissioned by Catherine de Medici. This Italian noblewoman, who arrived at the French court in 1533, remains an emblematic figure in terms of the relationship between women and power, and a point of reference in terms of political intelligence and the innovations she launched and introduced in royal manufactures, such as heels, the corset and Burano lace.
Fashion dialogues with reality through artifice, and court garments are transformed. Maria Grazia Chiuri updates the corset and gives it an almost geometric shape that frames the bust. The guêpière, sometimes hidden and sometimes visible, enhances a silhouette that evokes the wide skirts worn by courtesans in the time of Catherine de Medici. Raffia coats adorned with birds and floral motifs are an ancestral tradition that Dior has reinterpreted with its creativity and contemporary savoir-faire.
This collection pays homage to fashion as an ingenious art, capable of redefining the city of Paris time and time again. Fashion as an urban concept, as a display of clothing that colours the spaces of our time; the city as a backdrop for the tangible and intangible imagination of fashion and all that it represents. The map as a means to represent the city, to express the cultural complexity of our era and to pay homage to the power of the women who walk it every day.
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