Fashion could be conceived through the act of dressing, but also of undressing. Whether as an act of vanity or rebellion, the proposals for SS23 have focused on this semi-dressed state, revealing bodies through diaphanous fabrics or techniques that dance between asymmetries and deconstruction. A disorderly approach to dressing that is gaining followers for the coming season: from Prada to Ludovic de Saint Sernin, we can see how design is exploring, now more than ever, the subversion projected by the art of the nude.
The idea behind this new trend could evoke a kind of vindication of a woman’s right to defy corrective expectations, or simply boil down to an aesthetic. Be that as it may, a number of linked parameters have abounded within the SS23 framework: strategic cuts, the elevation of underwear and the juxtaposition of those diaphanous fabrics that cover as well as reveal.
THE LIBERATION OF THE FEMALE BODY
Coperni, as a contemporary cult brand, made its presence felt through this concept with which it displayed on the catwalk an infinite number of asymmetrical dresses composed of sensually sliding vertical straps. This “aesthetic of carelessness” or messy approach could also be seen in her low-waisted skirts, adapted to the shirts as if they were tied at the waist in a casual way, as well as in her romantic camisoles pinned diagonally across the body.
The romanticism of Cecilie Bahnsen, known for her vaporous and volatile silhouettes, was altered by the work of the eponymous designer from Copenhagen through the incursion into babydoll dresses with an overloaded cut, over fine and shiny shirts.
Other iconic proposals such as Victoria Beckham‘s experimented in the same way with this carefree or rebellious air, dressing her tousled models in dresses made up of ribbons wrapped around the body and sewn randomly with bras exposed in an intimate but intentional way.
Elena Velez, the Wisconsin-based designer known for synthesizing metalwork with the language of haute couture in the same narrative, favored a tougher, “toughness” energy. That warrior vision led the models to storm the runway in muddy heels and bodices made of linen and raw cotton. A universe in which straps were conceived as bandages and elastic laces were intertwined in skimpy dresses.
The glorification of the human body and the fascination with exploring its limits or capabilities is thus leading designers to experiment with the act of nudity, moving away from its ingrained and simplistic sensuality, to introduce a new version based on resilience and liberation.
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