Julien Dossena opens the doors of Jean Paul Gaultier’s archive

Jean Paul Gaultier has counted on Chitose Abe from Sacai, Glenn Martens from Diesel and Y/Project, Olivier Rousteing from Balmain, Haider Ackermann, and now Julien Dossena from (Paco) Rabanne as guest Creative Director. The Frenchman presented a haute couture collection faithful to the brand’s DNA, opening the doors of the archive.

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The runway show featured established models like Laetitia Casta alongside new faces, sporting Dossena’s dramatic interpretation of Jean Paul Gaultier. In a recent interview for Vogue, Dossena explained, “I love the ideas of transformation that Jean Paul has worked with over the years: a garment that starts as one thing and then transforms into something else. There is also the notion of turning the everyday into something fantastic, which I find very poetic. We have created embroideries that take up trompe l’oeil but also include the idea of movement. It is a reinterpretation of the JPG codes, but using other techniques.”

The runway show began with a black suit adorned with gold embroidery and crisscross lapels, which served as the basis for the details of the next look. A navy blue pinstripe double-breasted suit was first tailored. Then, a Madonna-style cone applique (part of the Jean Paul Gaultier archive), a combined peplum and polysuit, and a fabric tail at the back that replicated the pleats of the previous suit were added.

Headpieces were paired with lace tops, and blazers that looked straight out of the ’90s, made of faux fur and printed with a leopard pattern, were matched with a striking headpiece. Metallic hoops and black stones came together to chain a dress together, recalling Rabanne’s mini-dresses, skirts and accessories from last season (and also his own archive), while an equal amount of Jean Paul Gaultier’s signature drama was also on display.

Such was the transgressive elegance of Balenciaga Couture 52nd.