We sneak into the Bibliothèque National de France to discover the Autumn/Winter 2024 collection designed by the great NIGO.
Immersed in one of the most historic places in the French capital and surrounded by some of the most iconic celebrities of the current cultural scene such as Pusha T, ASAP Nast, Quavo, Rich the Kid, ASAP Ferg, Tina Kunakey and even Pharrell himself (a close friend of NIGO), we were able to witness once again an unprecedented cultural exchange. The creative director’s aim is none other than to evolve the elegance of the fashion house by introducing non-Western influences into the Parisian fashion world.
Since his arrival at the creative helm of KENZO in September 2021, NIGO has been working tirelessly on this transition. We saw it in the previous show, where he successfully blended the most formal tailoring with the most unconventional shapes, fusing Japanese codes with Parisian style. Now, he continues this mission, guided by the same use that George Lucas made of Akira Kurosawa‘s samurai films in creating the Star Wars universe: nothing less than creating a fantastic, original and complete culture as never before.
In this way, we find various details and silhouettes rooted in the Japanese tradition and impregnated with reminiscences of the typical uniforms of science fiction. This is the case of the kimono coat, reminiscent of a warrior’s cape, or the draped pleated dress that simulates the cape of a spacecraft heroine. There are also nods to Western military and utilitarian wardrobes in sheepskin jackets and flight jackets, as well as cargo-style suits.
Women’s silhouettes are defined by judo belts and also built on the oversized proportions of tailored pieces – skirts and pleated tops highlight KENZO tradition, while fur outerwear focuses on Parisian glamour. The men’s selection, meanwhile, is led by the gakuran schoolboy suit and complemented by voluminous duffel coats, varsity jackets and military style in all its forms.
In terms of accessories, it is important to highlight the Japanese art of wrapping and knotting that is present in the Furoshiki bag, made of soft calfskin and textured suede. The small Sakura is inspired by Kenzo Takada‘s patchwork of bows and incorporates the clasps and buckles of the Pagadon bag from the 1990s. Futurism comes in the form of the KENZO Discover, a futuristic bag to accompany the single-strap and shiny nylon backpacks.
Lastly, the footwear selection is headed by genderless sneakers that bring back the skate codes of the late 90s with futuristic details whose leather, suede or neoprene structure sits on a midsole wrapped in mesh. Other standouts include the KENZO Biker, a motocross boot; the minimalist, lightweight KENZO Ukio; and the thigh-high KENZO Reia heels with a sharp suede toe.
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