Levi’s® and Denim Tears: an ode to the African-American biker community

For the third season of their ongoing collaboration, Levi’s® and Denim Tears have created a ten-piece collection that pays reverent homage to the African-American biker community and its enduring state of mind: honour, commitment, expression, existentialism, identity and the power of the individual within a community.

After World War II, biker culture exploded in the United States. One of the first black motorcycle clubs in the United States, the East Bay Dragons, was founded in 1959 in Oakland, California, near the headquarters of the Levi’s® brand. In African-American biker culture there is a sense of outsiderism, a danger, a pride, a respect, a commitment to freedom and a defiance of conforming to polite doctrine.

The biker look can only come from treating what is worn as lifelong sacred objects that develop mystery and patina. Secret codes, symbols and colours beautifully damaged by heat, scratches, rips and cracked fuel, giving the feeling of a living skin or armour. Splicing the multiple aesthetics of motorbike culture through an afro channel prism, the Levi’s® brand and Denim Tears capture the authenticity, reality, freedom and defiance of conformity that form the biker code.

The collection includes a Leather Cotton Wreath Type III jacket, crafted from premium Italian leather and finished with an all-over print of the Denim Tears cotton wreath motif, a co-branded patch embossed in suede and cinches that nod to traditional motorbike patterns. Offered with matching leather trousers, they represent hyper-confidence and make a bold statement.

The collection includes two classic silhouettes, a pair of Western Stitch 501® jeans, celebrating their 150th anniversary in 2023, and a matching Western Stitch Denim Shirt. Both garments are offered in faded indigo and feature embroidered western motifs on the arms, back yoke and the outside of each leg. In addition, there is a Western Cowboy shirt in black distressed denim with a sherpa collar, fringe detailing and leather lace-up fastening.

One of the most defining pieces in the collection, a leather waistcoat topped with a chenille pharaoh patch, evokes the mythic, heroic and fantastical otherness that makes up the biker identity, while also referencing the idea and resonance of Afrofuturism and legend. The Longest Ride T-shirt also uses this pharaonic graphic, surrounded by Pan-African flags.

The collection is completed by a set of accessories that can be worn and carried exclusively by their owner. A beautiful black and gold embroidered backpack reinterprets the collection’s western motifs with floral appliqués, while the ADG denim cap comes in a medium indigo wash with an embossed leather patch. Finally, the brown leather belt with brass pharaoh buckle and stud detailing is the perfect accessory to complete the ensemble.

“I have been fascinated by black motorbike culture for as long as I can remember. What at first glance looks like simple, functional attire has aesthetic influences from Native Americans, cowboys, rodeos, work clothes, military surplus, outlaws and hobos,” says Tremaine Emory, founder of Denim Tears.

“We cooked all of these elements with the legacy of the flash show and Afro opulence to honour the powerful state of mind of the black biker. I know that those who have the attitude, character and front to wear these pieces will do so forever.” The campaign features real members of the black biker community, captured in the places where they live their lives.

The Season 3 collection debuts beginning September 12, 2023 on Denimtears.com and in select wholesale shops. The collection launches on Levi’s® channels from 14 September 2023 on Levi.com, the Levi’s® app and in selected Levi’s® shops.

Aitana, the queen of national pop, is the star of our September cover with LEVI’S® custom looks.