New York, Tuesday night. Under the illuminated immensity of Rockefeller Center, Luar once again made it clear that fashion isn’t just worn, it’s lived. Madonna and Ice Spice in the front row, Offset raising the temperature on the catwalk and Ana’s metallic bags shining like trophies. Raul Lopez’s SS25 collection wasn’t just a show: it was a statement. Entitled ‘En Boca Quedó’ – that Dominican phrase that slips in like a sharp knife, insinuating that whether you’re present or not, tongues will still wag at you – Luar’s collection was an ode to rebellion and self-empowerment.
Knee-high boots with kitten heels that broke with convention, Oxford loafers that announced Luar’s entry into the world of footwear, and hoods made of deformed leopard prints all played with the idea of duality. As if each piece had one foot in tradition and another in the present. The Yahaira bag, a nod to López’s own personality, is not just an accessory, it is a manifesto of identity. ‘The literal translation of ‘En Boca Quedó’ was the premise that resonated throughout the show. A play on words that speaks of legacies.
Each look was a reminder of Lopez’s journey, a journey that straddles the expectations of the Latino community and the search for a space of her own in the New York jungle. Double-breasted coats with oversized sleeves and cinched hoods offered shelter, while knitted dresses became knitted armours that rose to cover the models’ heads, an embrace that shielded them from the gaze of others. Trench coats with large shoulders and multi-dimensional textures were like futuristic shields that promised to safeguard the wearer from any judgement or prejudice.
But it wasn’t all gloomy or introspective. Luar is synonymous with boldness and defiance. Shiny black suits, almost as if they had been dipped in water, unstructured formals and workwear ensembles that shouted the brand’s name from the rooftops reminded us that fashion can also be a party. And then there were the Ana bags, in gold and loaded with little charms from a collaboration with American Express that exuded luxury and power. Every detail reinforced the idea that there is nothing wrong with standing out, with shining brighter than the rest.
At the end, Lopez walked the runway with a smile that was pure New York, and the cheers from the audience were not long in coming. ‘Mother!’ was heard in the audience, while someone else shouted “Come on, grandma!” in a tribute to the name the designer has earned in the ballroom scene. The energy was real, palpable, and suddenly, any shadow over the future of New York Fashion Week dissipated. Because, at the end of the day, Luar is just that: a promise that, whatever happens, there will always be something to talk about.
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