Luca Magliano fills Pitti with rebelliousness and classicism

Luca Magliano, the Bologna-born designer, returned to Pitti Uomo 105 as guest designer of honor for Fall/Winter 2024, showing a collection that reflects his growth, maturity and a deep connection to his roots.

Magliano’s fashion show, held at the Nelson Mandela Forum in Florence, was a cinematic event, with models emerging from clouds of smoke and descending the grand staircase of the venue. The set was designed as a “tension mechanism and an impromptu occasion for glamour,” reflecting Magliano’s metaphorical exploration of political dynamics.

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For FW24, Magliano explored classic menswear forms, infusing them with doses of femininity to appeal to a wider audience. Powerful women such as feminist poet Patrizia Cavalli, Italian actress Anna Magnani and German artist Hanne Darboven inspired the collection, and their strong portraits reflected Magliano’s commitment to inclusivity on the mainstream menswear stage.

The designer’s interpretation of the concept of “classic” leans toward an expanded feminine form. “Being at Pitti means reflecting on the idea of classic, and our interpretation is feminine, a kind of new neutral that belongs to gay identities and queer culture,” Magliano explained. Cuts are deconstructed, rearranged and transformed into new-age classics, challenging fashion binaries.

Collaborations played an important role in the collection, with hand-stitched Neapolitan suits by Kiton and eccentric headwear by Borsalino. Magliano emphasized the collaborative nature of the line, “It’s about starting a cultural conversation with people who don’t see things the way you do. You have to find common ground.”

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Overall, Magliano’s FW24 collection is intellectual, insurgent and ironic. It seamlessly blends formality with disorder, expert tailoring with worn artistic elements. The collection proudly embraces the plight of the queer community and takes a futuristic approach to categorical clothing, exemplifying the essence of Magliano’s signature style.

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