Luis de Javier Paris debut: Spaniards do it better

Luis de Javier has made his long-awaited debut at Paris Fashion Week with his most ambitious collection to date. With it, the designer has demonstrated his ability to handle the language of haute couture, and has made it clear that Spanish fashion still has possibilities on the international stage. Mentored by Riccardo Tisci, Luis has surprised with a proposal that is a declaration of intentions.

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“I have always wanted to pay homage to my heritage, especially Cristóbal Balenciaga, who defined much of what Spanish fashion represents today,” commented Luis after his runway show at the iconic Espace Niemeyer. Inspired by the structured silhouettes and elegance of 1940s fashion, Luis de Javier also incorporates a contemporary twist with elements that evoke bullfighting, highlighting his deep connection to his roots.

Matador jackets, mantillas turned dresses, translucent virgin dresses adorned with his signature horns. The challenge of revisiting the montera, the quintessential accessory of controversial bullfighting, was proposed to Betto Garcia, and the designer did a great job. In collaboration with Nike, this key piece of Spanish folklore acquired a new meaning through feathers and bangs, details that are usually associated with a more feminine or queer imaginary.

With four years of trajectory and presence on runways in New York, Los Angeles and London, Luis de Javier has built a solid identity around his queer community and club culture. However, his Paris debut marks a before and after in his career, showing a significant evolution from his previous collection. While Spring/Summer 2024 collection, showcased in Los Angeles, focused on ready-to-wear pieces, this new collection takes a step towards couture, with a focus on more conceptual and artistic pieces.

Since the official announcement of Riccardo Tisci’s collaboration in October 2023, the entire fashion industry has had its eyes on Luis. This mentorship has been key in honing the vision of the designer, who now combines Tisci’s influence with his own unmistakable style, fusing Parisian sophistication with the passion and energy of Spain, as well as the clubby darkness characteristic of LdJ’s aesthetic.

His Paris debut is not only a pivotal step for his brand, but also a reaffirmation of his growing global influence and a demonstration that Spanish talent continues to be a major player in the industry.