Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons study fluid architecture as an accurate reflection of the human body in this SS24. The liberation of the body begins at the foundation of the garments that dress it. It all starts with a simple shirt that gives way to a whole ensamble of men’s garments: suits, trench coats, active sportswear, reporter jackets.
The Fondazione Prada welcomes us in this new season with a large silver structure. Background rock music based on Nine Inch Nails with the song “Closer” incites us to follow the free movement of the Prada man on the catwalk. Suddenly, a mucous liquid begins to fall from the ceiling. The study of the fluid form of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons begins.
Starting from the simplicity of that white shirt, the collection proposes a notion of expansion. The amplification of an idea: a paradox between silhouette and materiality in which the lines of the masculine suit are contradicted by an intrinsic flexibility.
Tailoring elements evolve the idea of expansion towards elaboration in three-dimensional decorations that we see on shirts, reinventing the idea of floral print through applications of bouquets and bangs. Extending this idea, the utilitarian pockets shed their function, to act more as additional decorative elements. Vests are transformed into expedition garments with many pockets.
Prada SS24 is thus about the masculine liberation of the classic suit. The ultimate goal is a constant awareness of the inner body, and its liberation. A liberation that according to Miuccia’s words backstage at the fashion show can be difficult to achieve for both designers. Even so, the creative duo have achieved a lightness of the male wardrobe with total with expertise.
If you want to see the previous Prada men’s collection FW23, you can click here.
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