ALLED-MARTINEZ welcomes its latest collection through a live presentation for the first time since 2020.
This season, Archie Alled-Martinez seeks to reclaim the term “metrosexual” – which hides a homophobic tone – and reinterprets his iconic silhouette from the early 00’s, making it more ‘camp’; eradicating any hint of fragile masculinity and transporting it to 2022.
Metrosexual: “Urban heterosexual male who enjoys shopping, fashion and other similar interests traditionally associated with women or homosexual men”.
In his proposal for Spring/Summer 2023, Alled-Martinez makes us reflect on the term “metrosexual”.
‘Reclaiming The Fields’ offers an updated take on this now iconic aesthetic from the early 2000s. In doing so, it eradicates the homophobic tone of the idea behind what was the most representative masculine trend of the moment and working to ensure a camp version that removes any hint of fragile masculinity.
In an exercise of in-depth research into queer theory, Alled-Martinez has turned to the scene of football, a sport that the designer identifies as highly dominated by heteronormativity, but also highly charged with homoerotic imagery.
Transporting us to the most private area of the camp – the dressing room – in what was the brand’s first live presentation since 2020, the designer transposed this testosterone-heavy, sensual scene into a peep-show format. It distilled the sexual energy infused into the collection, juxtaposed with an homage to the 00s.
Alluding to the aesthetics of the gay community at this time, which has already offered recurring elements for the brand, the collection includes a variety of techniques and fabrics that bring the viewer closer to the pinnacle of fashion, as Alled-Martinez describes it.
Pink cotton vichy is used to make sleeveless shirts that the designer offers alongside sprayed tank tops juxtaposed with relaxed crop tops and long sleeved double layered t-shirts; referencing the spoof logos so representative of the 00’s, but making them queer, just like the football uniform shirts, made for the occasion in luxurious silk jerseys.
Double jeans and double shorts are presented with the fly unbuttoned to refer to the simple sex drive present. On the other hand, cargo trousers show a looser version with a slit in the fly. This mimics the V-shaped abs of the male anatomy.
A peach skin polyester fabric is used throughout the collection to create loose-fitting cargos, T-shirts, shorts and the traditional Alled-Martinez all-white look. The silver nylon taffeta featured on double-ended zip-up shirts adds a retro-futuristic tone to the brand’s colour palette.
This season, Archie goes back to its roots with a new cut of its iconic ribbed trousers, now in a low rise and straight leg.
The now classic Canadian dinner jacket takes the form of a tailored jacket and dark indigo shorts. They are also reinterpreted in a washed denim version that includes a fitted jacket with a tab collar and extremely low-slung, straight-leg jeans.
Swimwear is also an important part of the collection, with a retro cut in viscose or stretch denim, as well as the classic millennium surfer cut with a V-waist.
Maxi cross-body bags will appear as the main accessory. They have been designed in denim, black canvas and raw silk macramé; and will combine perfectly with the belts made by the artisan Alicia Medina.
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